Maun and the Okavango Delta

We spent three days in Maun and the Okavango delta. When we arrived in Maun and got off the truck, the weather was amazing. Going from elephant sands it was a welcome change. We stopped for money, water and snacks. The shoprite was crazy with queues - the weekend at the end of the month is not the time to shop! After a half hour of trying our best to ward off queue jumpers, we finally got to the front. The scanner didn't work all that well, so the cashier had to hand type each of the barcodes. After that and our second trip to the ATM since we decided we needed more Pula we were off to the camp in Maun. The camp was Sitatunga - delta rain. We set up our tents and started a game of beach volleyball. No one was that amazing, so we just hit the ball around. We eventually ended up playing a semi official game, but with no referee it was slightly difficult to make calls on whether the ball was in or out! We played more cards and then had dinner - pasta, spicy chicken something, broccoli and cauliflower, and white sauce. Sarah and Natalie all bought a passion fruit cheese cake in town for dessert. I think we also started the fine for calling the truck anything other than the truck or shire. Mo is thus far the worst offender calling it 'bus' six times.

The next morning we boarded an open truck with our day bags to head to the delta. 

It was pretty chilly on the truck, so we were bundled up in long trousers an hoodies. When we arrived a team of polers was there to help us in to makoru ( again I'm sure I am spelling this wrong). A makoru is a dug out canoe. Now they are made of fibreglass, but they used to be tree trunks. There were two people to a makoru and one poler. Natalie and I sat in Baeti's makoru. They made our mattresses into seats and put our bags behind they so we could sit. The ride was about an hour long through heavy reeds. We saw zebra on the way. We were instructed by the captain to not make any sudden movement or we might end up in the water with the crocs. It didn't help that Natalie is deathly afraid of spiders and we were told that dragon flys, frogs, or spiders might try to catch a ride on the makoru. It only happened once and I tried to be quite about it and fling the spider out, but Natalie caught on. I let out a small "eek" when it landed on me which tipped her off. She asked "is everything alright???" I said "yep, fine!" But she said said... "Everything doesn't sound fine!" In the end, it was fine and we arrived at our island. 

We set up tents and most everyone had a makoru poling lesson. I decided to skip the lesson as I had no desire to get the one set of clothes I brought wet! The captain let us know some rules - no wandering, no sitting on the upturned makoru (or table) and if the spade and or toilet roll were gone, someone was... "In the toilet" and rule was one person at a time!

I got a bit of a pep talk which consisted of "squat" and had a go at the make shift toilet. I'm not a fan of the squatters potties, but surprisingly, the hole in the ground was much cleaner than most squatty potties. Bush toilet was Jamie approved. 

We had pasta salad and sandwiches for lunch and say around playing more card games. 

At 430 we all got back in to the makoru to go to another island for a nature walk. We looked at holes, poo, and animal tracks. Learned that hyenas have white poo because they eat leftovers like bones. After our quick nature walk, it was back in the makoru to our island.

We had steak, potato bake, and salad which we shared with the polers. After dinner, they sang and danced for us, with us joining in at the end. We also played two games. One was a Simon says type game where the captain (who was now the chief) was Simon and he would call out head, chest, or bum in another language. I made it pretty far, but got confused when he said four things at once and took myself out of the game. I was better at the next game where we all picked African animals and then you had to remember everyone's animal. The chief would call "WILD DOG" (that was me) and I would have to say "chief" and he would ask me in another language what animal I wanted. I would then say "ELEPHANT" (that was mo) and the chief would repeat "ELEPHANT" and she would answer "chief" and it started all over again. If you hesitated, said something too early or called am animal that had been eliminated, you would be eliminated. I made it nearly to the end, with lion, elephant, wild dog, and tsetsebe left, but whine I was asking how to say/spell tsetsebe the chief started with me and I was out! 

The next morning we got up and took a game walk on our island where we saw a hippo, kudu, zebra and several birds. We then packed up, had breakfast and the polers took us back. This time I put my buff over my face, laid in the makoru and had a nap. The reeds didn't bother me so much with the buff over my eyes!

Back on the open air truck we headed back to the camp, passing several children who really liked waving to us.

We set up camp again, some had showers and my team's chore for the day was cooking, so we set up the sandwich station for lunch. After lunch, lots of people went in to town, but stayed behind and had my shower and attempted to hand wash some dirty clothes. I think my clothes are still dirty!

Once everyone returned from town, we played some drinking games, learned some German from the German girls and then started on dinner. 

We had steamed veggies, pasta, beef stew, and stuffed squash with sweet corn and cheese. After dinner we played some more games and I headed to bed early, but most people headed for the bar. We had a lie in until 7am the next day! Amazing!

Game drive in the Chobe National Park

Friday the 20th, we got up at 5am. We had a game drive to get to! Here's the sunrise from the park.

We spent three hours in the park, here's a little of what we saw

Here we are in front of the best find! A leopard with her cub and their kill (an impala)  in a tree.

Breakfast was waiting for us when we got back at 930 - eggs, toast, cereals, tea and coffee.

Elephant Sands

Next stop was elephant sands. It is exactly what it sounds like. The camp was very sandy and there is a man made watering hole where all the elephants gather. The watering hole is directly next to the bar/pool/restaurant area. We arrived there after a three hour drive. The approach to the camp sent everything in the truck flying. Sleeping bags, mattresses, everywhere.. We set up tents in a searing heat and made lunch - toasties and oranges. Everyone went to the pool area to watch the elephants. There were about 25 of them just a few feet from us. Every once in a while they would annoy each other and make a raucous. Very chill (but sweltering) day. 

Before dinner I took a shower in the saltiest water. I felt slightly dirtier after the shower! But there was a view of the elephants from the shower. We played some card games before dinner and then ate bubotee (I am sure I spelled that wrong) which is mince, garlic, turmeric, chutney and a scrambled egg on top cooked in a Dutch oven. We also had rice, stir fried veggies, and a salad. After dinner was more cards. 

This was one of the camps where you don't get out if your tent because animals are all around. Ater playing cards at the bar, we walked back to the tent area and saw an idiot driving his suv (with a tent on top) through an area where you were not supposed to be. Probably more scary than being attacked by an animal - being run over by an idiot smashed beyond belief. Luckily, that didn't happen, but I  also didn't see any animals other than an elephant early in the morning. 

We all got up really early (breakfast was meant to be at 6.30.. and your meal ticket is that your tent is all packed away.) and by 6 we had fed ourselves - missed out on French toast because we were so eager! I am becoming an expert flapper.. The method of drying the kitchen items by waving them vigorously! 

Now we are heading on a 4 hour drive to Maun. Here's the entrance to the truck.

Kasane

On the 19th we left Livingstone and headed to Botswana. The drive was pretty quick. About an hour to the border where we had to get off the truck and get our passports stamped to exit Zambia. We waited 45 minutes or so. For the barge (very small barge) to take our truck to the other side of the river (about 800 meters). We were told that some of the larger trucks can wait at the border for up to a week as the smaller cars and goods trucks take priority. 

Once in Botswana we had to disinfect our shoes (all of our shoes) and we were back on the truck headed to our camp site for the day in Kasane. We stopped at the Spar for water and snacks while Colin shopped for the food. Thebe River Lodge was the camp site, nothing to complain about there! Flush toilets and showers. Prefect. For lunch we had 'Vienna sausages' - hot dogs. Then some of us were off for a river cruise. I thought this would just be a bit boring, but the cruise was down the Chobe River through the national park, we saw loads of animals.

 

This cute guy here drank from the river for a bit and then headed off, but failed to realise there were three crocs just behind him. He nearly stepped on on, startling himself, sending the crocs running and he gave a big trumpet and he ran off.

At one point there was a hippo that appeared behind the boat and was chasing after us for a minute. We'd just see his head splash out of the water every once in a while. Here is one of his less angry friends...

Oh, and these were my feet by the end of the day. I was really glad for the shower!

We had dinner when we got back - chicken and sausage with coleslaw and a tomato, cucumber, and pepper salad. 

Victoria Falls

The day after rafting (18th) we decided to take it a bit easy. We moved our things from our "pre-erected" tent to our new home for 13 days. The truck - "Shire" - and the tent we set up ourselves! Colin, the tour guide gave us some tips on tent set up... Start with one axis for the poles, start from the top hooking in the tent, and most importantly don't stand on the tent! 

After getting set up we monopolised some chairs by the pool for the next few hours and had burgers from the restaurant for lunch before heading to Victoria falls. When we arrived we marvelled at the rocks. Yes rocks. It's currently the dry season in Zambia, so the falls aren't mosi-oa-tunga...smoke that thunders.. right now. However it is 37 degrees Celsius... Or, REALLY HOT.

Here's me, blocking the one part of the falls we could see well. Oops.

After Victoria falls, we assumed our previous positions by the pool at the Waterfront. Dinner was pizza from the wood fire oven and a bare bones banana split - both were great though! Soon after dinner we retired to the tent. It was a bit different than the tent with beds and a fan!

White water rafting the Zambezi

After travelling from London to Johannesburg (11 hour flight - longest I've ever been on) we managed to cut a queue for security as we were in within a few minutes of missing our flight to Livingstone. All worked out and we managed to arrive at our "pre-erected" tent (with a fan and a dodgy light!) around 2 or 3. We did have a split second thought to upgrade to the five star resort next door when everyone in our airport shuttle disembarked there, but decided to rough it in the tent. We went to the activities desk and looked at our options for the next day. After mulling over lion walks, abseiling, and white water rafting, we decided on the rafting trip. A 25 rapid journey!

The next morning we got up and met our rafting group. Our guide, Ru, was a Scotsman who spends a few months out if the year here in Zambia. In our raft was Kath and Matt at the front, followed by me and Mo in the second seats, Rebecca and JJ behind us, and Dan and Ru bringing up the rear. We hiked down into the gorge to the boiling point where we got in the raft. It was all good fun until the devil's toilet bowl where I basically got flushed. I was the only one thrown out of the raft (well done me), and surprisingly it wasn't that... (wait for it) crappy! I hadn't reacted fast enough to the EVERYONE DOWN! command. A safety kayaker picked me up and delivered me back to the raft. Amazingly I managed to hang on to my oar. That was the part that I was most worried about.

We had a chance to swim a bit, but I decided since I already took my swim, I'd stay in the boat. Little did I know that meant Ru would put me to work! Although he did compliment my rowing technique - thanks KPMG dragon boat race!

I had watched the video of the rafting the day before and had basically memorized a lot of the route. I knew rapid number 8 was a big one. All of the rafts I saw in the video flipped on 8... And our raft was 'star trekking' it - going big or going home. This time we somehow managed NOT to flip. I think Ru was disappointed!

After rapid 10 we stopped for a quick (emphasis on quick) lunch where the half dayers left us to hike out of the gorge. I was more than happy to get back in the raft. That was until rapid 13. The Mother. Yep, that's where our whole raft flipped. Not a great experience. Luckily they said in the safety briefing if you're under the raft just keep going the same direction until you're out. But then you still go through the rest of the rapid on your own! I managed to come out with two oars! Yeah! 

Everything was ok then again until 17 - the terminator 2 - terminated us. Flipped raft, Mo broke her helmet(!!!) and again that terrible drowning sensation. Drowning would be an awful way to go. But, we all came out of it alive. The rest of the rapids went smoothly for us. We swam down 2 of them sans raft (by choice). There was a whole lot of paddling toward the end, so I was so grateful to see the cable car to take us back to the top. 

We got in the truck and headed back toward the Waterfront (our... accommodation? Definitely not hotel.). We passed several villages where children would run up to the truck and wave and shout for our empty water bottles. 

When we got back to the waterfront there was dinner waiting and we got to watch the video of our trip. Too good not to buy. Hopefully the DVD will make it in the heat until I can get to a post office.

So that was yesterday. Today we are feeling pretty old and stiff! We've now learned to set up our tent that will be home for the next 13 days and moved our belongings into the overlanding truck. Only 12 people on this tour out of a possible 24, so we all get 2 seats, 2 lockers (if we want), 2 mattresses and even can have our own tents. Mo and I have opted for a single tent since two tents means putting up and taking down two tents!

One week left

I've got one week left in London. It's hard to believe. I've been here almost three years. By the time I get back home it will be 1,081 days since I left. Although I've not documented my time in London in a blog (oops!), I'm really going to try and document my journey home.

Instead of booking the cheapest direct flight from London to DC as KPMG's policy dictates, I decided to book the most expensive flight of my life: a round the world ticket. Unfortunately, that means I'm picking up the tab instead of Uncle Peat.

So here's what's happening.

I'm packing a 55 litre backpack and a 25 litre day pack with everything I'm going to need for the next 3 months. I've packed, cut things, and repacked about six times. I'm still not 100% on what I'm going to cut from the final list, perhaps that's for a different post.

I'm then going to board a plane at Heathrow with my good friend Mo and we'll be off on our journey, taking the long way home.

First stop: Victoria Falls, Zambia. We're taking a 13 day overland tour from Vic Falls, through Botswana and ending in Namibia. Camping in tents.

Next, we'll have a short break in Cape Town. Activities here have been planned out graciously by some amazing South African friends - thanks girls!

Then, it's on to Nairobi for another 22 day overland tour through Kenya and Tanzania. Yep, camping in tents again. We'll meet up with another good friend (and Mo's London flatmate), Kylie, for part of that tour.

From there we head for a break in Dubai where we're staying with some of Mo's friends in the world's tallest building!

After Dubai we'll hit Thailand - Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Krabi.

Vietnam is after Thailand, heading north to south with a quick stop in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Leaving Asia, first stop in Australia is Perth where we'll pick up another tour along the west coast up to Broome. Then we'll have a break in a city close to Mo's heart - Sydney - where she spent 2.5 years before coming to London.

After Sydney, the last stop is the North Island of New Zealand. We fly back to Los Angeles on the 20th of December and part ways in LAX. I'll touch down at Dulles on the evening of the 20th and then have one last glorious month of holiday...mmm... I suppose I should start calling it 'vacation' again.

People ask me what country I'm most excited about on this trip. Ummm...all of them?! Seriously. All of them. So, while I'm absolutely gutted (Okay, I'll try to stop with the Brit-speak. Who am I kidding...no, I'm not going to stop, so you're probably just going to have to get used to it.) to be leaving London, I am really looking forward to this trip and it will make leaving just a bit easier (I hope!?).